Next day in Livingston

We are too polite sometimes when we really mean no. Locals take our “tact” to mean we can probably be convinced to buy whatever they are selling.

Bus rides: With chx buses you know what you are going to get. Cheap, slow, crammed conditions – but full of local “flair”. We have been booking on the Primero class busses. When we asked about the amenities on the bus the “nice” bus has air conditioning, TV, bathroom and nice seats. Also there is the “primero” class for a little more money. We asked what you get with that. They said air conditioning, TV bathroom and nice seats. We then of course ask – what is the difference between the two? They say “the air  conditioning works on the premero class”.

Forests home-work is going OK. He is not too psyched to do it at times, as there are far too many other more interesting things to do, but is enjoying the journal and sketch part of it. We take “tourist” breaks and settle down somewhere and do work. Helps to slow us down a bit – which is nice. Forest is also becoming interested in birding. The birds here are pretty amazing. 

Of course during the course of this trip Jono and I are keeping our permaculture eyes and brains awake. We would love to take over the black water system in some of these towns. The sewage system is basically a pipe that runs to the nearest water source. It would be great to see a change but it is also so clear that they have many many other problems that take priority over that. Safety and security is one. The government does not have a handle on crime at all and we have heard a number of stories of the local “militia” (or maybe that is the local thugs) “taking care” of thieves and other trouble makers. Most people view this with caution as these same “helpers” can be indiscriminate in their targets and quick to judge. There is a mafia type relationship with the bus drivers in some cities where the drivers need to pay for “protection” and if they don’t…… As well, there is a healthy drug trade with its attached drug lords and minions. Some places just leave them alone and all is quiet until some competition comes in – like the ZETAS from Mexico which you may have been hearing about.

There is a strong hierarchy in class here. The whiter richer ladinos own most of the land and economic wealth and as peoples skin color darkens so do their prospects. The indigenous people are at the bottom. We have seen some indigenous people doing well (regularly employed that is) but it is hard to say if that is a continuing improvement or an anomaly. The complexity of the condition of the people is one we are not going to figure out this trip. Most of the locals seem to look at some of the “eco” projects with humor or simple acceptance while others are clearly fully on board with some progressive ideas. It is clear that there have been many “improvement projects” financed from outside that get going and then disappear due to lack of funding or lack of popularity in other countries. It is a case of the “yauda’s” – ya auda do this or you aught to do that. Lots of advice from outside with little stability within.

Our camera took a tumble on top of temple IV in Tikal so it is functioning intermittently. We hope it holds out for the duration.

Today Forest and I took a trip to a river with a section of 7 waterfalls. We walked up a ways and enjoyed a dip in a lovely pool. The jungle was so tall and thick all around – it was moist and cool. After that the boast took us to a small clean and quiet beach with hammocks, soda, beer and lunch. We stalked around and found  some pig-like tracks, some really cool lizards and beautiful shells. The plan was to go snorkeling but there were no boats full enough with folks wanting to go. We will try again on our return trip through this area. It is one of the best snorkeling/diving areas in the world outside of the Great Barrier reefs in Australia. Hope it works for us to go!!